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Home loans

First home buyer

The first one is the hardest. It does not have to be confusing as well.

Who this is for

You have never owned property in Australia and you are trying to work out whether you can buy, how much you need, and whether any of the government schemes apply to you. Most people arrive with a rough savings figure and no idea whether it is enough.

It is worth talking to a broker earlier than most people do. The useful conversation is not the one after you have found a house. It is the one where you find out what you can borrow, what you actually need saved, and which schemes you qualify for, before you start looking.

The deposit is the real barrier

Almost everyone assumes the hard part is affording the repayments. For most first home buyers the repayment is manageable and the deposit is what takes years. That is why the schemes designed to help first buyers are almost all aimed at the deposit rather than the rate.

Twenty per cent is the level at which lenders stop charging Lenders Mortgage Insurance. LMI is a one-off premium that protects the lender, not you, and it can run to many thousands of dollars. Saving to 20% avoids it entirely.

Five per cent gets you in the door years earlier, and under the First Home Guarantee the government guarantees the gap so no LMI is charged. Places are limited and eligibility criteria apply, and the repayment is higher because the loan is bigger. The example below shows both sides of that honestly.

A guarantor is the third route. A parent uses equity in their property as additional security so you can borrow without LMI. It works well, and it puts their property at risk if you cannot repay, so everyone involved should get their own advice first.

Whether waiting to save 20% or buying sooner with 5% is better depends on what property prices do while you save, which nobody knows. That is a genuine judgement call, not a question with a right answer, and we will lay out both rather than push you towards the bigger loan.

The schemes, in plain words

Australian first home buyer assistance comes from two places: the federal government and your state or territory. They stack in some combinations and not others, and the rules change regularly.

First Home Guarantee. Federal. Lets eligible first buyers purchase with a small deposit while the government guarantees the balance to the lender, so no LMI is payable. Places are capped and property price limits apply by region.

Family Home Guarantee. Federal. A similar arrangement aimed at eligible single parents, with a lower deposit requirement again.

First Home Owner Grant. State by state. A cash grant, generally restricted to newly built homes, with the amount and the rules differing in every state and territory.

Stamp duty concessions. State by state, and often the largest saving of the lot. Thresholds change with state budgets, so check the current position for your state rather than relying on what a friend paid two years ago. Our stamp duty calculator covers every state and includes first home buyer concessions.

Eligibility, caps and availability are set by government and change without much notice. We check what currently applies to your situation rather than working from a list.

How the process runs

From first conversation to keys is commonly three to six months, most of which is spent finding a property rather than arranging finance. The steps below are indicative.

  1. Find out where you stand. Borrowing capacity, the deposit you actually need including costs, and which schemes you qualify for. Free, and worth doing before you look at a single listing.
  2. Fix anything fixable. Closing unused credit cards, clearing a small debt, or tidying up spending for a few months can move your borrowing capacity more than shopping for a better rate.
  3. Pre-approval. Lets you bid or make an offer knowing your limit. It is conditional, it can be withdrawn, and it usually expires after about three months, so it is a strong indication rather than a promise.
  4. Offer and full application. Once you have a contract, the lender assesses the application against its own criteria and values the property.
  5. The lender decides. If the lender approves, formal approval is issued and loan documents follow. Approval is the lender's decision alone, and it is never certain until it is given.
  6. Settlement. Your conveyancer and the lender settle with the seller, and the property is yours.

What to watch

The deposit is not the only cash you need. Stamp duty, conveyancing, inspections and lender fees all land before settlement, and they are the reason people who thought they had enough saved find out they do not. Budget for them from the start.

Pre-approval is conditional. It is not a guarantee, it can be withdrawn if your circumstances change, and it does not cover the property. A lender can approve you and still decline the specific house if the valuation comes in low or the property type is one it will not lend against.

Watch your spending in the three to six months before you apply. Lenders read your actual transaction history, not an estimate. Regular buy-now-pay-later use, gambling transactions and a large unused credit card limit all reduce what you can borrow.

Borrowing the absolute maximum is rarely wise on a first home. Rates move, and the loan that is comfortable at today's rate may not be at a rate two percentage points higher. Lenders test for that; it is worth testing it for yourself too.

Five per cent or twenty per cent

The trade every first home buyer faces, on one $650,000 property. A smaller deposit gets you in years earlier and costs more every month. Neither answer is automatically right. These figures are a worked illustration, not an offer, a quote, or a prediction of your result.

Property price
$650,000
Rate
6.10% p.a. over 30 years
20% deposit
$130,000
Loan, and repayment
$520,000 at $3,151 / month
5% deposit
$32,500
Loan, and repayment
$617,500 at $3,742 / month
Extra you pay each month
$591
Saving $1,500 a month, 20% takes
7 years 2 months
Saving $1,500 a month, 5% takes
1 year 9 months
You buy earlier by
5 years 5 months

Illustration only. Assumes principal and interest, monthly repayments, one rate held for the full term, and no LMI on either loan, which for the 5% deposit assumes an eligible government guarantee. Without a guarantee or guarantor, LMI would apply to the smaller deposit and add materially to the cost. Excludes stamp duty and purchase costs, and assumes the property price does not change while you save, which it will. The rate shown is an example used to demonstrate the calculation, not a rate available to you or offered by any lender.

What it costs

Beyond the deposit, plan for these before settlement:

  • Stamp duty, usually the largest of them, though first home buyer concessions reduce or remove it in many states depending on the price.
  • Lenders Mortgage Insurance, where your deposit is under 20% and no guarantee or guarantor applies. It is a one-off premium, often added to the loan, and it protects the lender rather than you.
  • Conveyancing or solicitor fees for the legal side of the purchase.
  • Building and pest inspection, which is money well spent on an established home.
  • Transfer and mortgage registration fees charged by your state land titles office.
  • Lender application or settlement fees, which some lenders waive.
  • Moving and setting up: removalists, connections, and the furniture you discover you do not have.

Our fee is generally paid by the lender rather than by you.

Do I qualify
  • Genuine savings. Many lenders want to see part of the deposit saved over three to six months rather than gifted, as evidence you can hold money aside. Rent paid consistently can count in some cases.
  • Stable income. Usually past probation, though some lenders accept a new role in the same field. Casual and contract income is workable with the right lender.
  • Serviceability. Your income against the loan tested at an assessment rate well above the actual rate, after your existing commitments and living expenses.
  • Clean credit conduct. Missed payments, defaults and heavy buy-now-pay-later use all show up on your file.
  • Scheme eligibility, where you are using one: never having owned Australian property, income caps, property price caps and residency requirements all apply and differ between schemes.
What you will need
  • Photo identification, usually a driver licence and passport.
  • Your two most recent payslips, or two years of tax returns and notices of assessment if you are self-employed.
  • Three to six months of savings account statements showing your deposit building.
  • Three months of everyday transaction account statements.
  • Statements and limits for credit cards, personal loans, car loans, HECS or HELP, and buy-now-pay-later accounts.
  • Rental ledger from your agent, where you are renting.
  • A gift letter, if part of your deposit is coming from family.
  • The contract of sale, once you have made an offer.

Everything on this page is general information about how first home buyer loans work in Australia. It does not take your objectives, financial situation or needs into account, and it is not a recommendation that you borrow.

Nothing here is an offer of credit. No rate, cost, timeframe or outcome described above is guaranteed. Any recommendation we make follows a full assessment of your circumstances, and approval, pricing and conditions are decided by the lender against its own criteria. Where a decision touches on tax, superannuation or estate matters, we work alongside your accountant, financial adviser or solicitor rather than in place of them.

Government schemes, grants, price caps and stamp duty concessions are set by federal, state and territory governments, have limited places in some cases, and change without notice. Nothing here confirms your eligibility for any scheme. Check the current rules with the relevant government body, or ask us to check them for your situation, before you rely on them.

Common questions

How much deposit do I need to buy my first home?
Twenty per cent of the property price avoids Lenders Mortgage Insurance and is the cleanest position. You can buy with far less: many lenders accept 10%, and eligible first home buyers can purchase with around 5% under the First Home Guarantee without paying LMI, or with a family guarantor. The deposit is only part of it, though. Stamp duty and purchase costs land at the same time, and on an $850,000 purchase those can add close to $30,000 on top of the deposit.
What is Lenders Mortgage Insurance and can I avoid it?
LMI is a one-off premium charged when your deposit is under 20%. It insures the lender against your default, not you, despite you paying for it. It can run to many thousands of dollars and is often added to the loan, so you pay interest on it too. Three things avoid it: a 20% deposit, an eligible government guarantee such as the First Home Guarantee, or a family guarantor using equity in their property as additional security.
Which government schemes can I use?
Federally, the First Home Guarantee and the Family Home Guarantee both let eligible buyers purchase with a small deposit and no LMI, subject to income caps, property price caps and limited places. Your state or territory may also offer a First Home Owner Grant, usually for newly built homes, and stamp duty concessions, which are frequently the largest saving. All of these change with government budgets, so we check what currently applies to your situation rather than working from a list.
Should I wait and save 20%, or buy now with 5%?
This is a genuine judgement call rather than a question with a right answer, and it turns on what property prices do while you save, which nobody knows. Waiting avoids LMI and gives you a smaller loan and lower repayments. Buying sooner gets you in years earlier, and if prices rise meanwhile the deposit target rises with them. The example above sets out both sides. We will lay out the numbers rather than steer you towards the larger loan.
How does a guarantor loan work?
A family member, usually a parent, offers equity in their property as additional security for part of your loan. That lifts your effective deposit above the LMI threshold without them giving you any money. It is a genuinely useful arrangement and it carries real risk for them: if you cannot repay, their property is exposed. Lenders generally require the guarantor to get independent legal advice, and we would encourage that regardless. The guarantee can usually be released once you have built enough equity.
Does HECS or HELP debt affect what I can borrow?
Yes. Compulsory HECS or HELP repayments come out of your income before lenders assess what you can service, so a student debt reduces your borrowing capacity even though the debt itself is not treated like a normal loan. How much it matters depends on your income and how much is outstanding. Paying it off early is sometimes worth it and often not, so it is worth modelling rather than assuming.

Talk this through with a broker

Send your details and we'll come back to you with what these numbers mean for your borrowing, usually within one business day.